Basil Sorbet and Sour Cheese Sticks

Our theatre company has made the short hop, skip and jump down to Cheonan this weekend and so I'm trying to fit in as many culinary delights as possible. Tonight thanks to the very useful Cheonan Where To Eat site, run by Jackie Bolen from Just Wandering, we were able to track down a very interesting little Italian restaurant near the Cheonan Bus Terminal.

Dono Marco is an odd looking place, seating only about twenty or so in a very stark white room filled with old racing posters and greenery. They offer the usual range of pastas, pizzas and risottos and tonight our merry group of thespians needed some cheesy goodness to brighten our evening. Three of us chose the "Baked Lasagne with meat sauce Bolognese"(12,000 won), one chose the "Spinach Fettucine with Salmon" (12,000 won) and the final member of our party selected the "Linguine with crab and broccoli". We also ordered a plate of cheese sticks for 7,000 won.



First out were some rather uninspiring salads, not too bad for a free little extra, but nothing to write home about.



The garlic bread, on the other hand, was a refreshing surprise. There was no hint of sugar in these buttery chunks of garlicky goodness. A much higher quality of garlic bread than almost all of the Italian restaurants I've tried in Korea.

Then came the cheese sticks...



One of my bugbears with Korean attempts at Italian cuisine is the need to squirt balsamic vinegar on or around my food. Vinegar has its places, but on top of cheese sticks is not one of them. The sticks themselves were perfectly cooked and wonderfully gooey, but the overpowering balsamic stole the cheese's thunder and turned a naughty little appetizer into a depressing brown mess.



Fortunately there were no sour notes in the main courses. The lasagnes were incredibly cheesy and more than a little reminiscent of the oft found "oven spaghetti", but were tasty enough.



A generous portion of crab meat topped this creamy dish...



And large chunks of fresh salmon adorned the other...

Both cream pastas were well received and gobbled down to the last strand.



I couldn't resist trying Dono Marco's special dessert, a Basil sorbet for only 3,000 won. I've not had one before and I was impressed with this sweet and peppery sherbet. The Basil held its own, but worked well with the sweetness of the dish.



Dono Marco's is worth visiting if only for the excellent garlic bread and basil sorbet, just stay away from the cheese sticks... To get to this little Italian gem go down the alley way next to Dunkin Donuts opposite the Cheonan Bus Terminal and head up the hill. Dono Marco is about three minutes walk away on the right hand side. You can call them on 041 553 4554.

Jamsu Bridge - Wet and Dry Comparisons

One week ago Jamsu Bridge looked like this....



Back to normal....

Pain De Papa (Or Jam and Bread - The Revenge)

Tartine may rule the preserved fruit roost north of the river, but down south in the hip and trendy parts of Shinsa and Apgujeong lies some serious competition.



Pain de Papa is a tiny bakery cafe, but is filled with the most wonderful breads and cakes.



Catering for all tastes, Pain De Papa offers baked goods with a Korean touch alongside fantastic ciabattas, bagels, baguettes and rustic loaves.



The star of the store is kept on the counter top: The 시골스런 깜빠뉴 (pain de campagne) is a monstrously beautiful loaf that is sliced to order for a mere 10 won per 1 gram. A rather robust slice set me back 2,500 won, but it was more than worth it.



Pain De Papa also offers a range of homemade jams. When I went last week they had strawberry as well as Korean organic mulberry jams (mislabeled as "blueberry", they thought no-one would know "mulberry"). I bought myself a cute little pot of the mulberry jam for 7,000 won.



The combination of pain de campagne with a little butter and a lot of mulberry jam was heavenly. Close to raspberry jam in flavour, mulberry offers darker, richer tones of sweetness that will satisy even the most jaded of jam lovers. Pain De Papa is worth a visit, if only to pick up some of this excellent organic jam.



Pain De Papa lies at the 압구정 (Apgujeong) end of 가로수길 (Garosugil). To get there either head out of exit 5 of Apgujeong station or exit 8 of Shinsa station and walk down till you hit this pretty street (Recognize it by Kraze Burger at the Apgujeong end and J-tower at the Shinsa end). Pain De Papa is just round the corner from Gusstimo and can be contacted on 02 543 5232. For more Garosugil love, check out FatmanSeoul's article here.

Jam and Bread

After a rather disappointing lunch at the Villa Gresti near Yangjae station, I needed something to satisfy my rumbling and rather grumpy stomach. So as I arrived home at tea-time, I decided to head down to Tartine to check out their rhubarb jam. Chef Garrett left a comment on my Romanian Peasant bread post last night saying that his cafe/bakery was serving his homemade jam and I was in the mood for some sweet baked goodness.



I decided to try the Rolled Oats bread this time for 4,000 won and went for both the rhubarb and the rhubarb and strawberry jams (an extra 500 won). Coffee and tea start from only 3,000 won and Tartine offers a much calmer and more pleasant ambiance than the Starbucks down the road. It feels a little bit like my Grandmother's sitting room, filled with interesting knick-knacks from all over the place, without being too cluttered or cutesy.



After a few moments preparation the bread, jam and butter came out. Beautifully presented with generous helpings of rhubarb goodness.



The rhubarb jam was sweet yet tart and worked wonderfully with the bread and butter. The strawberry and rhubarb jam was a vibrant red and to my palate even tastier (but then I've always been a strawberry jam man...). The combinations whisked me back to childhood breakfasts and before I knew it I had scoffed down half the loaf. The Rolled Oats bread is my preferred choice over the 5 Grain/3 Seed bread. It is simple, chewy and compliments the butter and jam perfectly.



If you are looking for a tea-time snack, then Tartine should be high up on your list.

Tartine is two alleys down from the Hamilton Hotel (take the alley opposite the Three Alleys Pub) and serves wonderful tarts as well as Romanian Peasant Bread and scrumptious jam. You can call them on 02 3785-3400 or visit their website here.

Seoul's Seasonal Underwater Bridge

I went down to 잠수교 (Jamsu Bridge) underneath 반포대교 (Banpo Bridge) this morning to take a look at the damage yesterday's rains had done. I'd seen pictures of the flooded bridge in previous years, but I had never actually taken a close look for myself. It really is incredible what a few days of rain can do to a river and at the same time a sober reminder of how dangerous monsoon season can be.



Most of the bridge was underwater, with only the signs and traffic lights to remind us how high the water has come up.



The underpass heading to the Yongsan army base and Noksapyeong has also succumbed to the floods.



Steps head down into the water...



A lone "slow" sign holds its own against the river.



The cycle paths have disappeared.



All that's left of Jamsu Bridge is the hump.



Trees are almost completely covered.



You can find the full set of pictures here.

Rainy Day Lentil Blues

Let me start off by telling you a few things about my relationship with Le Saint-Ex in Itaewon:

We've known each other for years. I think I first met this lovely little Bistro back in 2002ish when my friend took me there for a bottle of red wine and a plate of cold cuts, and I immediately fell in love with the place. Small, cosy, filled with dark wood, deep reds and cream walls, it reminded me of a France that I miss very much. An idealised little bistro where the menu is chalked up on a blackboard and wine can be had by the "pot". One of the very few restaurants in Itaewon to serve butter with their generous helping of bread, its 16,000 won lunch set has always held a special place in my heart and is deeply appreciated by my rather voluminous stomach. The staff have always been very friendly, the food has never disappointed and the table full of desserts that greets you as you enter is guaranteed to put a smile on the face of even the most hard-hearted of gastronauts.

With all this in mind I'll tell you about my lunch today...



I was having coffee and watermelon with friends this morning, and as the rain poured down we discussed our favourite monsoon treats - the meals that really satisfy us when the clouds are dark and the weather is stormy. Certainly pancakes are a Korean rainy day favourite, but when the heavens open, the streets are flooded and my socks are soaked, the one thing to brighten my mood is an old fashioned meat stew. After we drained our dregs and spat out a few final pips, I trudged my watery way back to Itaewon in search of sustenance.

Le Saint-Ex seemed like the perfect place to weather out the rain, so I sat myself down on a crimson banquette and perused the menu. The lunch set consisted of soup or salad, beef parmentier (a french style cottage pie) and dessert, but I fancied something a little heavier and stew like... My eyes fixed on the "Seared Pork Tenderloin with Lentil Stew" (25,000 won plus tax) and I felt that it would be the perfect antidote to this gloomy Tuesday.

Within minutes a large basket of bread and a pat of butter were placed in front of me and in the blink of an eye my main course made it to the table...



Four pieces of well cooked pork tenderloin sitting atop a very traditional lentil stew with a generous scattering of olive slices. A real taste of French home cooking, this simple dish was delicious. The pork was tender and the lentils were cooked to perfection, but for me something was missing...



For 16,000 won I could have soup, a main course and dessert; yet for 25,000 won all I receive is this admittedly delicious plate of pork and lentils? Where were the potatoes? Where was the chunky veg? Why did it feel as if I was eating only half a main course?

If this had come out as part of the lunch set I would have been more than satisfied, but after paying an extra 9,000 won for my meal, I was sort of expecting a little extra wonder for my won. The menu had not lied in its description of the dish, but I still looked over at a nearby table's portion of frites with a real sense of longing. Where was my greasy carbohydrate? Surely the chef could have whipped up a gratin dauphinoise, a bowl of fries or even a couple of boiled spuds.

A scattering of lentils are not enough to fill a grown gourmand's appetite, so I ended up inhaling the rest of the bread basket in the hopes that my rumbling stomach would forgive me.



I love Le Saint-Ex, but I'll be sticking to the reasonably priced lunch set from now on. To get there, get off at Itaewon Station head down the alley next to KFC, turn left and walk right down to the end. Le Saint-Ex is on the left hand side opposite the 3 Alleys Pub. You can call them on 02 795 2465, but remember to order an extra portion of chips...

Romanian Peasant Bread in Seoul?

Flipping through the latest issue of PR, I spied an article by Niki DeWitt called "The Sweet Escape". Writing about artisan bread in Seoul, DeWitt focused on Chef Garrett at Tartine in Itaewon and his new addition to the bakery. Not only can you get your share of tarts and cheesecakes, but now you can purchase Chef Garrett's own "Romanian Peasant Bread".



For 4,000 won you can buy either a loaf of "Oats Peasant Bread" (a mix of unbleached wheat flour, wholewheat flour, rye flour, rolled oats, yeast, salt and water) or "5 Grain - 3 Seed Peasant Bread" (a mix of unbleached wheat flour, whole wheat flour, rye flour, corn, whole wheat, brown rice, oats, rye, flax seeds, sesame seeds, sunflower seeds, yeast, salt and water).

According to the article Chef Garrett brought his own thirty year old sourdough starter over from the States and he ages his dough for a week before baking. I headed down to Tartine today to pick up a loaf for myself...



It's good stuff, the name is a little fancy, but it's good quality bread. It tastes like it's home baked and it looks as if it has been made with love. I'm not sure how authentic Tartine's Romanian Peasant Bread is, but I am certain I will be buying it again.



Tartine is two alleys down from the Hamilton Hotel (take the alley opposite the Three Alleys Pub) and serves wonderful tarts aswell as Romanian Peasant Bread. You can call them on 02 3785-3400 or visit their website here.

Rainy Day Pizza Blues

With the Monsoon season really starting in earnest today, I braved the torrential rain in search of sustenance. Fortunately I didn't have to walk too far, just down behind the Hamilton Hotel. I had passed the Cucina Acca Trattoria many times, but never felt charmed by its menu, which just seemed to be the same old pastas, pizzas and risottos that you can find all over Seoul. Today I decided to give it a go...

The decor is all reds and browns, giving a cozy yet rather dim feel to the place. The staff were very helpful and attentive, but that may have been because there were only two other customers. I decided to go for the "salami pizza with chili powder" (15,000 won plus tax) and a bottle of Fuller's London Pride Outstanding Pale Ale (8,000 won plus tax). I haven't had British beer for a year and I fancied a little taste of home as the rain poured down outside.



Served with a beautiful Fuller's glass, this pale ale may not be the best of British, but to my Cass stained palate it tasted heavenly. My only complaint would be the size of the serving in relation to the cup. 330 ml does not a pint make, so why serve it in a pint pot? A small matter, but the pedant in me refused to be satisfied with a three quarters full glass.



Cucina Acca's yeasty offerings came first with a slice of "brioche" and some garlic bread. The latter was rather tasty, whilst the former seemed a little stale and more like buttery foccacia than brioche.



The pizza arrived and I was disappointed. The base was thin, but lacked character; the salami was placed in a circle, rather than dotted about, so only one bite in every four contained meaty goodness and the cheesy top was rather bland. There was an ample amount of chili powder on the pizza, but all it did was cause my mouth to feel slightly irritated.



Cucina Acca says it is a "Premium Italian Restaurant" on its business card, but I'd advise you to head to La Tavola, CasAntonio, Sortino's, Macaroni Market, Ola Mario, Bombomb or La Volpaia for a taste of Italy. Their beer is not too bad though....

If you really want to go to Cucina Acca then head out of exit one of Itaewon station, take the alley next to KFC and turn left. Cucina Acca is on the left hand side under Syd & Mels and opposite My Chelsea. You can call them on 02 790 5486 or visit their Korean blog here.

Pork in Busan

After a few days in Busan and a few visits to some delicious fish restaurants, yesterday I was ready for something a little bit more land based. So I found myself on the doorstep of a small restaurant just up the hill from Gwangalli beach.



This ordinary looking place has a very small menu offering you the choice of 돼지국밥 (Pork soup), 수육 (Steamed pork) and 순대 (Blood sausage), as well as other variations based on those three dishes. I went for the pork soup for 5,000 won and a plate of blood sausage for 7,000 won.



Side dishes are fairly minimal, but you get a good selection of sauces to mix into the soup or dunk your sausage into.



The sausage itself wasn't beautifully presented, but it may well be the best I've had in Korea. I'm often disappointed with blood sausage as it leaves me with a dry mouth and a longing for black pudding, but these tasty black tubes were full blooded meaty delights. In texture and taste they felt more like a traditional banger and were perfectly seasoned.



The pork soup may not be to everyone's tastes. I know that a fair few of my friends would turn their noses up at this concoction, however, if you worship the pig as much as I do then you'll be more than satisfied. This dish is basically a porcine version of 설렁탕 (Beef soup), a very simple mix of boiled pork, pork stock and garlic chives. You are then free to add wheat flour noodles, salt. pepper, chili paste, fermented shrimp or black pepper to the bowl, depending on your desires. For me it's a filling, warming taste of home, but for others it may be pork overload...



Busan maybe famous for its fish, but if you find yourself in the area then it's worth your while checking out the meatier side of Gyungsan-do cuisine.



돈가촌 (Dongachon) is open 24 hours a day and can be found just a few doors down from the entrance to the MBC broadcasting complex up the hill from Gwangalli beach. You can call them on 051 754 1524.

Tour Ajosshi Needs Your Help

As the rainy season starts so does our theatre company's tour of Korea. Over the next seven weeks we'll be visiting Busan, Gwangju, Daegu, Cheonan, Goyang and Gwacheon and traveling makes me very, very hungry. If you know of any interesting restaurants or specialities in these areas I'd love to hear from you...

So if any of you, my dear readers, can help me in my quest for good food, then I will be forever in your debt and if any of you fancy meeting up for a bite to eat then please let me know. Paul Ajosshi is off on tour and looking for some tasty treats!