Itaewon Juxtaposition

Wandering the streets of Itaewon yesterday I heard the clang of gong and beat of drum coming from somewhere up on high.

At the top of Hooker Hill, the Itaewonland Sauna was celebrating their reopening with a traditional parade.

As they trotted down Hooker Hill, I was struck by how in Itaewon, you can sometimes see the strangest things...

HDR photos processed with Photomatix.

Gwangju Ddeok-Galbi Battle

Just a few minutes walk from 송정리 (Songjeong-ri) station in 광주 (Gwangju) is a street filled with some of the most delicious food in Korea. 떡갈비 (Ddeok-Galbi) is the traditional Korean alternative to the burger. There may be no buns in sight, but the charcoal grilled minced meat patties are incredibly tasty and very moreish.

Every time we visit Gwangju I make a point of heading down to the 떡갈비 street if I have time and I fill up on this fantastic food. Last month through bad planning and coincidence I ended up going two days in a row to two different restaurants and I wanted to offer you an insight into the competitive world of minced meat.

The first night I went to 이조정통떡갈비. I've been here three or four times and have never been disappointed. The place looks a little shabby, but don't let the rundown feel deceive you. They produce top-notch food at a very reasonable price. 9,000 won gets you the 떡갈비 set, which starts off with a bowl of pork bone soup.

It's up to you to dig in with fingers or chopsticks and prise out the precious meaty jewels that are tucked into the ragged bones. It takes a little effort, but it is worth the struggle. Usually the bones at 이조 are very meaty, but the night I went they seemed a little lacklustre, with only a few globs of meat to feast on. Perhaps it was because I came alone, or perhaps it was bad luck, but certainly a disappointing start compared to other visits.

Though the meal got off to a rocky start, it soon got back on track with the arrival of the star of the show. The 떡갈비 here is a mixture of pork and beef and is beautifully grilled. The sweet sauce works well with the seasoned meat and leaves you wishing for another portion.

How you eat it is up to you, leaves are provided for the making of little green parcels and I recommend taking advantage of the raw garlic to give your 쌈 a real kick!

A bowl of rice will set you back 1,000 won or you can try out various 비빔밥 (Bibimbap) for 3,000 - 6,000 won.

You can call 이조정통떡갈비 on 062 944 9592. It's about the fourth restaurant down the street and is on the left hand side.

Onto the next night and the whole of our team from "Shadow Thief" made their way to 빛고을 떡갈비 명가.

It's right next to 이조정통떡갈비 and is much flashier. With two floors they've got space for much larger parties and we were able to have our own private room.

Once again we went for the 9,000 won 떡갈비 set and once again we were presented with bowls of pork bone soup.

These bowls were far superior to the previous night, large chunks of tender meat hung off the bones and the portion was much more generous. So far so good.

The 떡갈비 came out and looked delicious. A lot more saucy, these patties looked more manufactured than handmade.

They weren't quite as rough around the edges as the other restaurant and looked a little processed. Not to worry though they still tasted good... But not as good as 이조. There's a big difference between the two. For 9,000 won at 이조 you get a pork and beef patty, but for the same price at this place it's all pork. You have to fork out 17,000 won if you want the beef 떡갈비 experience. Such a shame. The combination of pork and beef is one of the things that gives this food its depth of flavour. When you just have a mouthful of pork, it's not the same, a shallower experience. I feel the same way with spaghetti bolognese, when you mix pork and beef together it lifts the dish to a whole different level.

As our theatre company was graciously footing the bill we all partook in a second course and got our pick of noodles and rice dishes.

I went for the 육회 비빔밥 (raw beef bibimbap - 6,000 won). It looked incredible and the beef seemed very fresh. 

Unfortunately the large amount of red pepper paste overwhelmed everything. I'm fine with spice and usually the bibimbaps I have are well seasoned with just the right amount of red gloop, but this one was spoilt by excess chili. 

You can call 빛고을 떡갈비 명가 on 062 944 6670.

So where to go? It has to be 이조정통떡갈비. Their 떡갈비 win on texture and flavour and their pork bone soup is usually spot on. They are also a lot friendlier and the intimate atmosphere of the restaurant adds to the enjoyment of your meal. While 빛고을 떡갈비 명가's presentation is superb, some of their preparation seems sloppy and their staff are to busy to give you much attention.

If you find yourself in the Gwangsan area of Gwangju then I hope you get a chance to try out one of Korea's tastiest dishes. 

Seoul Eats And The Power of Suggestion

It all started this morning as I sat sipping my coffee and surfed the internet. Looking at the latest crop of blog updates I noticed Daniel Gray had a new post about Macaroni Market. I clicked through and something about his photo of the macaroni cheese stirred my passions.

I don't know what it was, but some baser instinct inside of me raised its ravenous head and I knew I had to head to Macaroni Market for lunch. I'd been there once before, the week of its opening, but had not had the time to venture back.

It still looks as stylish as ever and the waiter very kindly sat me next to the heater. Ordering was easy, I had my eye on one thing and one thing only: Macaroni & Cheese (11,000 won plus tax).

Beautifully toasted bread with the standard oil and balsamic vinegar dip came quickly, but I wished for my main dish, the holy grail of comforting baked pastas. And then it came...

This is not your mother's mac and cheese. This is a pumped-up, super-rich, indulgent bowl of creamy, cheesy goodness. Emmental, parmesan and two kinds of cheddar (New Zealand and Korean!) come together in a silky, sticky sauce covered with crunchy bacon and breadcrumbs and topped off with tiny shreds of lemon peel and parsley.

There is a depth of flavour to this macaroni and cheese that beggars belief. The richness of the sauce combined with the crispy bits of bacon and bread satisfied my stomach on a very deep level. And the lemon peel! Those tiny shards offered sniffs of lemony heaven with each gloopy bite.

This dish is not for the faint-hearted or the weak-stomached. It's a large portion that even had me struggling to finish. I'd recommend ordering it with a salad and sharing with a friend, but if you're in the mood for warming, cheesy comfort food, then this big bowl of macaroni fits the bill.

To get to Macaroni Market come out of Itaewon station and walk towards Hangangjin, past Hard Rock Cafe, Kraze Burger, Ali Baba and Villa Sortinos and you'll find yourself staring up at the restaurant. You can call them on 02 749 9181 and satisfy your cravings for cheesy pasta.

Mr. Gray and his seductive Seoul Eats are to blame for this wonderfully indulgent lunchtime! Now I have to go and work off all those calories...

A Lost Phone, A Delicate Doughnut And Some Sweet Sweet Pork Noodle Action

Yesterday I decided to take a little bit of Ajosshi time and headed down to Myeong-dong to catch the English subtitled screening of "Handphone".

Turns out it's not bad. A little long and flabby at 137 minutes, but an enjoyable thriller. I won't recommend it as strongly as "Old Partner", but I had fun. It seemed to me to be a reflection of the impotent fury of middle-aged Korean men, having to give respect, but never getting any back. It certainly makes me want to treat E-Mart employees with grace and kindness. 

If anyone's interested there are screenings this weekend and I heard that from next week there will still be screenings, though much fewer. Be warned, it's a film for those of you with strong stomachs for violence, lots of nastiness...

Myeong-dong Lotte Cinema

Saturday: 1215, 1655, 2135, 2400

Sunday: 1215, 1655, 2135, 2400

Busan Lotte Cinema

Saturday: 0950, 1445, 1940

Sunday: 0950, 1445, 1940

Monday: 1025, 1520, 2015

Tuesday: 1025, 1520, 2015

Ansan Lotte Cinema

Saturday: 1910, 2150, 2430

Sunday: 1910, 2150, 2430

While waiting for the screening to start, I popped into Krispy Kreme for something to get me through the two hours of film. Ordered myself an original glazed (1,200 won) and was pleasantly surprised to find that they had supplied me with a knife and fork. I grew up in a small town in England, where we grasped doughnuts firmly in both hands and scoffed them down with great delight. They have always been a finger food in my mind, so I was intrigued at the possible opportunities that a knife and fork offered.

Well, it took longer to eat the doughnut and I felt just a tad more gentile, but I still had the usual feelings of hollowness and guilt as I finished the overly sweet little treat.

After watching two grown men chase each other and swear a lot, I was ready for lunch, so I headed down to the basement of the Migliore building to one of the tastiest Chinese restaurants in Myeong-dong.

Zaoping is huge, you could get a fair few football teams sitting in here at the same time. It feels a bit like a Chinese TGI Fridays, but the food is a lot better.

They offer a range of dimsum (3,500 to 6,000 won per dish) as well as other dishes. But there is one thing in particular that I love:

The Guangdong style broiled pork noodles (6,000 won) look ugly and messy, but underneath that soggy disguise is the most delicious of surprises.

Beautifully cooked belly pork, seasoned with traditional Chinese spices, giving it that wonderful reddish tinge that signals sweet piggy goodness. The noodles are al dente and the sliced vegetables are delightfully crunchy, counterpointing the sloppy joy of the pork and gloopy sauce. Perhaps this dish is an acquired taste, but I absolutely adore it.

Zaoping is directly under the Migliore building and can be accessed through the subway station. You can visit their website here or call them on 02 2124 1888.

Dos Tacos in Hongdae

Whether you're hungry for Mexican food in Gangnam, Apgujeong or Hongdae there's a little chain of restaurants that will fill you up for a very reasonable price. Dos Tacos has a great selection of tacos, burritos and quesadillas.

The lunch menu offers two hard, soft or al pastor tacos for 6,900 won, a meat and rice burrito for 6,500 won, a scrambled egg and potato quesadilla for 5,000 won or chili french fries for 5,500 won. All these options come with either coke, coffee or orange punch. You get to choose your own meat whether it be beef, pork or chicken.

I went for the beef burrito and was pleasantly surprised by the huge handful of coriander that awaited me inside my wrap. I'm not an expert on Mexican food, the closest I've ever gotten was a visit to Houston, Texas and a big plate of sizzling fajitas, but Dos Tacos serves a tasty burrito. It may or may not be authentic, I wouldn't be able to tell, but it's a cheap and tasty way to fill yourself up.

Service was friendly and fast, though cutlery, napkins and the like are all at the counter waiting for you to get them yourself.

To get to Dos Tacos in Hongdae take exit 6 from Hongik University station and head up past VIPS and the KB Star bank. Dos Tacos is a little further up towards the University, it's located on the left hand side of the road in the Prugio building, next to Subway. Visit their website or call them on 02 322 3677.

This Week's Film Listings: CGV Yongsan and English Subtitled Screenings (March 5-8)

This week's film listings for CGV Yongsan (Thursday March 5 to Sunday March 8, 2009):

The Secret of Moonacre

Thursday 0855, 1110

Friday 0850, 1105

Saturday 1500

Sunday 1500

The Curious Case of Benjamin Button

Thursday 0910, 1230, 1550, 1910, 2230

Friday 0910, 1230, 1550, 1910, 2230

Saturday 0900, 1220, 1540, 1900, 2225

Sunday 0900, 1220, 1540, 1900, 2225

He's Just Not That Into You

Thursday 0900, 1140, 1420, 2020

Friday 0900, 1840, 2120

Saturday 1050, 1335, 2020, 2350

Sunday 1050, 1335, 2020, 2350

The International

Thursday 0840, 1340, 1815

Friday 0900, 1825, 2055

Saturday 0830, 1330, 1810

Sunday 0830, 1330, 1810

The Unborn

Thursday 2240, 2435

Friday 2240, 2435

Saturday 2350

Sunday 2350

Watchmen

Thursday 0820, 1130, 1440, 1700, 1755, 2015, 2110, 2330, 2425

Friday 0820, 1130, 1440, 1755, 2010, 2110, 2330, 2425

Saturday 0820, 1135, 1450, 1715, 1805, 2030, 2120, 2435

Sunday 0820, 1135, 1400, 1450, 1715, 1805, 2030, 2120, 2435

The Wrestler

Thursday 0920, 1140, 1400, 1625, 1850, 2110, 2330

Friday 0920, 1140, 1810, 2015, 2220, 2420

Saturday 0920, 1145, 1410, 1630, 1850, 2110, 2335

Sunday 0920, 1145, 1410, 1630, 1850, 2110, 2335

In Bruges

Thursday 0830, 1045, 1300, 1515, 1730, 1945, 220, 2415

Friday 0830, 1045, 1300, 1515, 1730, 1945, 200, 2415

Saturday 0840, 1055, 1310, 1525, 1745, 2000, 2215, 2430

Sunday 0840, 1055, 1310, 1525, 1745, 2000, 2215, 2430

Frost Nixon

Thursday 1310, 1755, 2240

Friday 1140, 1605, 2400

Saturday 0850, 1125, 2345

Sunday 0850, 1125, 2345

Watchmen (IMAX DMR 2D)

Thursday 0930, 1250, 1610, 1930, 2250

Friday 0930, 1250, 1610, 1930, 2250

Saturday 0930, 1250, 1615, 1940, 2305

Sunday 0930, 1250, 1615, 1940, 2305

Old Partner (English subtitles)

Thursday 0850, 1040, 1230, 1420, 1610, 1800, 1950, 2140, 2330

Friday 0840, 1025, 1210, 1625, 1815, 2005, 2155, 2345

Saturday 1000, 1150, 1340, 1530, 1720, 1910, 2100, 2250, 2440

Sunday 1000, 1150, 1340, 1530, 1720, 1910, 2100, 2250, 2440

Yay! Old Partner gets more screenings! 

I've skipped 작전, 구새주2, 라스트 프로포즈, Korean dubbed versions of Garfield and Desperaux as well as the non English subtitled version of Old Partner as those of you who might want to see these probably speak enough Korean to find out the times yourself.

Handphone with English subtitles in still playing at the Lotte Cinema in Myeong-dong this week:

Thursday 1200, 1640, 2125, 2350

Friday 1215, 1655, 2135, 2400

Handphone with English subtitles also at Lotte Cinema Busan:

Thursday 1025, 1520, 2015

Friday 1025, 1520, 2015

Handphone with English subtitles at Lotte Cinema Ansan:

Thursday 1145, 1620, 2100

Friday 1145, 1620, 2100

All listings taken from naver and daum. Listings were accurate this mornings, but times may be subject to change....

If this information is useful to you then please let me know and I'll make it a weekly thing. I don't have the time to list every cinema in Seoul, so it would be good to know which listings would be handy.

Australia Day Ajosshi Style

This year Latt Children's Theatre were asked to perform for the Australia Day celebrations at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Itaewon. Here's one of the numbers we performed, it's a cover of Paul Kelly's Dumb Things:

Angelie O'Brien and Amy Wollstein on vocals, Carl Hirst on guitar and Paul Matthews on harmonica. I'm the one with the enormous beard (which has since shrunk into a much more demure goatee).

Budget Curry in Gangnam

After Roboseyo's sage comment about how modern and stylish restaurants serve the worst food sometimes, I decided to go as down market as possible for lunch. Indian Curry House Vin 103 fit the criteria perfectly.

Dark and dingy is the order of the day. This cramped room seats forty using what look like old folding school chairs and cast offs from failed bars and night clubs.

The tables are uneven, the cups are plastic and the places stinks of curry in a good way. The lunch menu has three different sets: A gets you chicken curry, "naan" and rice for 6,500 won. B gets you chicken curry, "naan", rice and a samosa for 7,500 won. C gets you chicken curry, "naan", rice, a samosa and a piece of tandoori chicken for 10,000 won. Pay an extra 1,000 won on any set and you can have beef curry instead. You then get a choice of mild, medium or spicy for your curry. I went for the B set beef option...

The samosa was rather ordinary and the "naan" didn't quite look like naans normally do, more chappati or roti in origin. The curry had a few thin strips of beef, but tasted good and the whole meal was satisfactory for the budget price.

Service was not particularly friendly, but it was efficient. Overall, good value for a quick weekday lunch.

To get to the Indian Curry House Vin 103 get out at Gangnam station and walk towards the Gangnam CGV cinema, once you get there turn right and take the road between the 7-11 and the Co-Co Curry House. Indian Curry House Vin 103 is a little further up on the right hand side opposite the C'Etait Bien European Tea House. You can visit their cyworld page or call them on 02 508 8717.